JANUARY
It
is the middle of summer and the garden is a blaze of colour. In the
summer rainfall areas, gardeners should be making plans for the
winter garden.
SUMMER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Remove
faded flowers and water regularly in dry weather. In summer rainfall
areas, put out snail bait in the late afternoon after rain or
watering.
HARDY
SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS
If
these are sown now the seedlings will stand through the winter and
start flowering early next summer:
Alcea rosea
(Hollyhock)
Alyssum
Antirrhinum majus (Snapdragon)
Daucus
Carota var. carota (Queen Anne's Lace)
Delphinium grandiflorum
(butterfly delphinium)
Dianthus (pinks)
Digitalis purpurea
(foxglove)
Iberis umbellata (candytuft)
Malcolmia maritima
(Virginian stocks)
Petunia x hybrida
Phlox
drummondii
Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium)
Verbena x
hybrida
WINTER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Prick
out or transplant Primula malacoides (fairy primula) and ornamental
kale seedlings.
Sweet
peas:
Prepare trenches for sweet peas. Dig a trench about 40cm wide and
60cm deep, keeping the bottom soil on one side. Break up the soil at
the base of the trench and return the bottom soil well mixed with
compost. Do this with the topsoil as well. Remember to compost well.
This should be done a month before you sow the seeds. A week before
sowing, lightly sprinkle with lime and rake it into the top layer of
soil. Now you should prepare your support systems.
In summer
rainfall areas, sow the following:
Papaver nudicaule (Iceland
poppy)
Viola x wittrockiana (pansy)
Viola cornuta
(viola)
PERENNIALS
Acanthus:
Cut foliage and old flowering stems down to ground level. Mulch with
compost and scatter 60g of 2:3:2 round the root area and water
in.
Chrysanthemums: Scatter a tablespoon of 2:3:2 round each
clump once a month, or feed with Multifeed P, Nitrosol or lush every
two weeks at the rate recommended on the container. Tie the plants to
their stakes.
Delphiniums (crowns and seedlings planted in
autumn): Water copiously, protect from slugs and snails, and tie new
flower stems to stakes where necessary.
Pelargoniums
(geraniums): Feed with 2:3:2 once a month. Give plants growing in the
open about a tablespoon scattered over the root area and those in
pots a teaspoon scattered over the soil. Water in immediately.
BULBS
Agapanthus:
Water abundantly in dry weather.
Amaryllis belladonna: If the
plant shave become overcrowded, lift, divide and replant the bulbs,
with the neck of the bulb just below the surface of the soil. In the
winter rainfall areas, wait until April and lift after flowering.
Cannas: Water during dry weather, and scatter 60g of 2:3:2
round each clump once a month. Water in after application. Remove old
flower stems by gripping them firmly at the base and giving them a
sharp twist.
Dahlias: Water during dry weather, and feed
every two weeks with a soluble fertiliser. Disbud by removing all but
one bud on each stem. Tie the plants to stakes and watch for red
spider.
Gladioli: Water regularly and spray one a week
against thrips and gladiolus fly, and spray for rust if necessary.
Lift those, which are dying back.
Irises: Finish lifting and
dividing the clumps this month.
Liliums: As the blooms fade,
remove the seed heads (unless the seed is to be saved), cutting them
off with the minimum amount of stem. Give each clump a tablespoon of
3:1:5. Dissolve this in 5L of water; apply to the root area and water
in. Keep the ground well mulched with compost.
White
evergreen arum lilies: If the plants are overcrowded and the flowers
deteriorating they can be lifted and divided this month. Cut some of
the older leaves off, then replant the tuber-like rhizomes in the
soil enriched with compost and dressing of
superphosphate.
SHRUBS
Half-ripe
cuttings of all shrubs can be taken this month.
Azaleas: Water
regularly and hose down the foliage. Take half-ripe cuttings of the
new growth that was sent out in spring.
Camellias: Mulch the
ground under the bushes with acid compost and/or bark (obtainable
from your nursery) and, from now on, water once a week if the weather
is dry. This is important for bud development. It is the ideal time
to take half-ripe cuttings of the new wood that was sent out in
spring.
Cotton lavender: Prune lightly after the shrub has
flowered.
Hydrangeas: Remove faded flowers unless they are
required for flower arrangements. Give each bush 30g of 2:3:2 and
mulch with compost or peat. Water two or three times a week, hosing
down the foliage. Watch for red spider.
Roses: Continue
preventive spraying against black spot, rusts and mildew. Give each
bush a tablespoon of 2:3:2 scattered over the root area. Renew the
mulch of compost on the beds, and water well once a week if the
weather is dry.
LAWNS
Feed
with 2:3:2 once during the month at the rate of 60g per square metre.
Scatter this over the grass when it is dry, and water in immediately
after application. Mow regularly, and water during dry weather, doing
this in the morning.
FRUIT
Citrus:
Water every three weeks during dry weather.
Grapes: Spray for
mildew if necessary. Grapes never ripen once they have been picked,
so always sample a berry or two before cutting a bunch.
Guavas:
Water thoroughly every two weeks during dry weather.
Mangoes:
Apply 2kg of 3:1:5, scattering this over the root area, starting at
least 10cm away from the trunks of the trees and going out to just
beyond the drip line of the branches.
Mulberries: Water once
during the month if the weather is exceptionally dry.
Pawpaws:
Water every two weeks during dry weather.
Strawberries: Water
once a week during dry weather.
VEGETABLES
These
vegetables can be grown in the various regions this month:
Gauteng
Beetroot
Celetiac
Dwarf bean
Endive
Globe
artichoke
Jerusalem artichoke
Lettuce
Parsnip
Radish
Swede
turnip
Swiss chard
Turnip
Mpumalanga
and warm frost free areas
Capsicum
Eggplant
Pumpkin
Sweet
potato
Free
State and Northern Cape
Beetroot
Broccoli
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Celery
Dwarf
bean
Leek
Lettuce
Parsnip
Pumpkin
Runner bean
Swede
turnip
Swiss chard
Tomato
Turnip
Kwa
Zulu Natal Midlands
Beetroot
Broccoli
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Dwarf bean
Endive
Leek
Lettuce
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Radish
Runner
bean
Swiss chard
Turnip
Eastern
Cape and Karoo
Beetroot
Cabbage
Carrot
Cauliflower
Dwarf bean
Lettuce
Swiss chard
Western
Cape - Winter rainfall areas
Broccoli
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Dwarf
bean
Lettuce
Parsley
Radish
Runner bean
GARDENING CALENDAR
FEBRUARY
This
is usually a busy month in the garden. In many parts of the country
gardeners will be busy sowing winter flowering annuals. Most of the
summer flowering annuals will go on flowering for some time if the
faded blooms are removed promptly, and if the plants are fed from
time to time, and watered regularly when the weather is dry. Red
spider can be troublesome during hot, dry weather, so watch carefully
for the telltale yellow stippled leaves. Snails are active in the
summer rainfall areas and can only be kept under control if bait is
put out regularly at night.
SUMMER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Remove
faded flowers, and water regularly in dry weather. Feed once a month
with 2:3:2 and water immediately or alternatively feed with liquid
fertiliser.
HARDY
SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS
Any
of the annuals listed below that were not sown in January can still
be sown this month. Best results are usually obtained from seed sown
in seed trays. If these annuals are sown now the seedlings will stand
through the winter and start flowering early next summer:
Alcea
rosea (Hollyhock)
Alyssum
Antirrhinum majus (Snapdragon)
Daucus
Carota var. carota (Queen Anne's Lace)
Delphinium grandiflorum
(butterfly delphinium)
Dianthus (pinks)
Digitalis purpurea
(foxglove)
Iberis umbellata (candytuft)
Malcolmia maritima
(Virginian stocks)
Petunia x hybrida
Phlox
drummondii
Tropaeolum majus (nasturtium)
Verbena x
hybrida
WINTER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Sweet
peas:
These can be sown at the end of the month in all areas. A week before
sowing, give the soil a light sprinkling of lime and rake this into
the top layer of soil. Erect the trellis before sowing.
Summer
rainfall areas:
Any of the annuals listed below can be sown from the beginning of the
month onwards, unless otherwise stated:
Winter
rainfall and warm frost free areas:
Any of the annuals listed below can be sown from the beginning of the
month onwards, unless otherwise stated:
Calendula officinalis
(pot marigold)
Chrysanthemum carinatum (annual
variety)
Clarkii
Consolida ambigua (larkspur) (sow in
situ)
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis (Livingstone daisy or
Bokbaaivygie) (protect seedlings from birds by putting chicken wire
over the beds)
Lathyrus odoratus (sweet pea)
Linaria maroccana
(toad flax - sow in situ)
Lupinus hartwegii (lupin - sow in
situ)
Matthiola incana (stocks - sow at end of the month in all
areas)
Nemesia
Papaver nudicaule (Iceland
poppy)
Phacelia
Schizanthus (poor man's orchid)
Ursinia
anethoides (jewel of the veld)
Venidium fastuosum (Aus daisy or
bitter gousblom)
Viola cornuta (viola)
Viola x wittrockiana
(pansy)
PERENNIALS
Seedlings
sown in November and December should be large enough to plant out
into the garden now.
Delphiniums:
Water copiously and cut down old flower stems.
Dianthus
and carnations:
These can be propagated now by layering.
Hellebores:
These are probably starting to bud. Give the plant about a heaped
tablespoon of 2:3:2 scattered round each plant, and mulch with
compost. Start watering regularly if the weather is dry. Put out
snail bait round the plants if necessary.
Pelargoniums
(geraniums): Start pruning. Cut zonal and regal pelargoniums back by
half, and trim ivy leafed pelargoniums if they are spreading too
much. The tips of prunings can be used for cuttings. The cuttings
should be about 7- 8cm long. Cut just below a node or leaf joint.
Trim off the lower leaves, and dip the end of each cutting in a
rooting hormone. Insert the cutting in sand, firm, and then water.
SUMMER
FLOWERING BULBS
Agapanthus:
Water abundantly in dry weather.
Amaryllis
belladonna
(March lily): Before flowering, in the summer rainfall areas, if the
plants have become overcrowded, lift, divide and replant the bulbs,
with the neck of the plant just below the surface of the soil. In the
winter rainfall areas, lift in April, after flowering.
Cannas:
Water during dry weather, and scatter 60g of 2:3:2 round each clump
once a month. Water in after application. Remove old flower stems by
gripping them firmly at the base and giving them a sharp twist.
Dahlias:
Water during dry weather, and feed every two weeks with a soluble
fertiliser. Dis-bud by removing all but one bud on each stem. Tie to
stakes and watch for red spider.
Gladioli:
Water regularly, spray once a week against thrips and gladiolus fly,
and spray for rust if necessary. Lift those which are dying back.
Liliums:
As the blooms fade, remove the seed heads (unless the seed is to be
saved), cutting off the heads with the minimum amount of stem. Give
each clump a tablespoon of 3:1:5 dissolved in 5litres of water. Apply
this to the root area and water in. Keep the ground well mulched with
compost.
White
evergreen arum lilies:
If the plants are overcrowded and were not lifted last month they can
still be lifted and divided this month. Cut off some of the older
leaves, and then replant the tuber-like rhizomes in soil enriched
with compost and a dressing of superphosphate.
WINTER
FLOWERING BULBS
These
bulbs can be planted now:
Amaryllis belladonna (March lily -
plant now only in the summer rainfall areas)
Gladiolus
blandus
Gladiolus carinatus (mauve afrikander)
Ipheion
uniflorum (star of bethlehem)
Lachenalia (cape
cowslip)
Veltheimia bracteata (V. viridifolia - forest
lily)
SHRUBS
Keep
the ground mulched with compost and water once every three weeks
during hot and dry weather. Pay special attention to watering
camellias and azaleas. Hose down azaleas once a week in dry windy
weather. If azalea foliage is turning yellow apply iron chelate at
the rate recommended on the container, plus a tablespoon of magnesium
(Epsom salts) per bush, and acidify the soil with pine needles, acid
peat or a light dusting of sulphur.
Roses:
Continue preventative spraying against black spot, rust and mildew
combining this with a foliar feed. Water once a week during dry
weather.
FRUIT
(AND NUTS)
Apples,
almonds, apricots, cherries, grapes, nectarines, peaches, pears,
plums and quinces:
Once the fruit has been harvested gives trees and vines their final
application of fertiliser. Give all these deciduous fruits (only
1.5kg for almonds and grapes) 2kg of 2:3:2 scattered over the root
area. Water in well.
As the leaves start falling, rake them up
and put them on the compost heap.
Continue to put out bait for
fruit fly.
Litchis:
After the fruit has been harvested, give each tree 500g of 3:1:5
scattered over the root area. Apply the 3:1:5 to damp soil and start
at least 10cm away from the trunk. Water in after
application.
Pawpaws:
Give each tree 125g of LAN (limestone ammonium nitrate). Scatter this
over the root area starting at least 10cm away from the stem.
Pecans:
Water thoroughly once a month. Pineapples: Apply 60g of 2:3:2
scattered along per metre row.
Strawberries:
Prepare the bed now for planting in April. Dig in plenty of old,
well-rotted manure and/or compost, then scatter 3:1:5 at the rate of
250g per square metre.
VEGETABLES
Continue
to feed summer vegetables still producing good crops. Either scatter
2:3:2 along the rows at a rate of 60g per metre or apply a liquid
fertiliser. Water before and after applying any fertiliser.
Continue
to water vegetables regularly. Pull up any, which have finished
bearing. Transplant the seedlings of winter vegetables as soon as
they are large enough.
These vegetables can be grown in the
various regions this month:
Gauteng
and OFS Highveld
Beetroot
Brussels
sprouts (finish sowing)
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Dwarf
spinach
Endive
Globe artichoke
Jerusalem
artichoke
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsnip
Radish
Swede
turnip (finish sowing)
Swiss chard
Turnip
Lowveld
and warm frost free areas
Beetroot
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Capsicum
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Celery
Dwarf bean
Dwarf
spinach
Eggplant
Horseradish
Onion
Radish
Runner
bean
Swede turnip
Swiss chard
Tomato
Turnip
OFS
and Northern Cape
Beetroot
Broccoli
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Celery
Endive
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsnip
Swiss
chard
Kwa
Zulu Natal Midlands
Beetroot
Broccoli
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Carrot
Cauliflower
Celery
Dwarf
bean
Endive
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Onion
Peas
Radish
Swiss chard
Turnip
Eastern
Cape and Karoo
Broccoli
Carrot
Cauliflower
Leek
Lettuce
Radish
Swede turnip
Swiss
chard
Turnip
Western
Cape: Winter rainfall areas
Beetroot
Broccoli
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Carrot
Cauliflower
Celery
Dwarf
bean
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsley
Parsnip
Radish
Runner
bean
Spinach
Turnip
GARDENING CALENDAR
MARCH
Now
is the time to start thinking about planting winter flowering bulbs.
Even the smallest garden can have a drift of daffodils if the bulbs
are planted in groups and not in straight rows. The indigenous bulbs
(sparaxis, ixia, babiana) look particularly effective planted in
groups under deciduous trees. Start sowing Namaqualand daisies,
Ursinias and Bokbaaivygies in sunny places in the garden. They grow
easily and make a magnificent display.
SUMMER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Water
those, which are still flowering. Pull up those, which have come to
the end of their flowering season and prepare the beds for winter
flowers by digging in well-matured compost and 2:3:2 at the rate of
60g per square metre.
HARDY
SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS
Continue
sowing these in the winter rainfall and warm frost-free areas. Best
results are usually obtained from seed sown in seed trays. If these
annuals are sown now the seedlings will stand through the winter and
start flowering early next summer:
Acroclinium
(Helipterum)
Ageratum houstonianum (Floss flower)
Agrostemma
githago milas (Agrostemma)
Alcea rosea
(hollyhock)
Alyssum
Anagallis (pimpernel)
Anchusa capensis
'Blue bird'
Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon)
Campanula medium
(Canterbury bells)
Centaurea cyanus (cornflower)
Centaurea
moschata (sweet sultan)
Clarkia
Daucus Carota var. carota
(Queen Anne's Lace)
Delphinium grandiflorum (butterfly
delphinium)
Dianthus (pinks)
Digitalis purpurea
(foxglove)
Gaillardia pulchella (blanket flower)
Gilia
capitata
Godetia (satin flower)
Iberis umbellata
(candytuft)
Limonium bonduellii (Statice)
Linum grandiflorum
(Flowering flax)
Lupinus hartwegii (lupin)
Malcolmia maritima
(Virginian stocks)
Marticaria maritima (feverfew)
Miulus luteus
(monkey flower)
Mimulus moschatus (musk flower)
Lolucella
laevis (bells of Ireland)
Nigella damascena
(love-in-a-mist)
Papaver rhoeas (Shirley poppy)
Petunia x
hybrida
Phlox drummondii
Reseda odorata (mignonette)
Rudbeckia
(gloriosa daisy)
Salpiglossis sinuata (trumpet flower)
Scabiosa
atropurpurea (picushion flower)
Tropaeolum majus
(nasturtium)
Verbascum phoeniceum (verbascum)
Verbena x
hybrida
WINTER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Sweet
peas:
Do not over water seedlings, but keep the soil evenly damp. When
seedlings are about 10cm tall pinch them back, then allow only two of
the new stems to develop.
Summer
rainfall areas:
Any of the annuals listed below can be sown from the beginning of the
month onwards, unless otherwise stated:
Arctotis
acaulis
Calendula officinalis (pot marigold)
Chrysanthemum
carinatum (annual variety)
Clarkia
Consolida ambigua (larkspur)
(sow in situ)
Dimorphotheca sinuata (Namaqualand
daisy)
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis (Livingstone daisy or
Bokbaaivygie) (protect seedlings from birds by putting chicken wire
over the beds)
Felicia bergerana (kingfisher daisy)
Godetia
(satin flower)
Linaria maroccana (toad flax - sow in
situ)
Nemesia
Schizanthus (poor man's orchid)
Winter
rainfall and warm frost free areas:
Any of the annuals listed below can be sown from the beginning of the
month onwards, unless otherwise stated:
Arctotis
acaulis
Calendula officinalis (pot marigold)
Chrysanthemum
carinatum (annual variety)
Clarkia
Consolida ambigua (larkspur)
(sow in situ)
Dimorphotheca sinuata (Namaqualand
daisy)
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis (Livingstone daisy or
Bokbaaivygie) (protect seedlings from birds by putting chicken wire
over the beds)
Felicia bergerana (kingfisher daisy)
Godetia
(satin flower)
Lathyrus odoratus (sweet pea)
Linaria maroccana
(toad flax - sow in situ)
Nemesia
Viola x wittrockiana
(pansy)
PERENNIALS
Water
once a week during dry weather. As the flowers fade cut the stems dow
to ground level.
In the summer rainfall areas water helebores
once a week.
Lifting
perennials:
The following perennials can either be lifted and divided now, or in
September when new growth has started. Water the clumps the day
before they are to be lifted. After lifting do not let the roots
become dry. Do the dividing in the shade, and if you are expecting
the task to take some time cover the clumps with damp sacking to
further protect the roots. For replanting choose healthy young
growths from the outer edge of the clump.
Ajuga reptans (bugle
mint)
Alyssum saxatile
Anemone japonica
Anthemis
sancti-johannis
Armeria maritima (thrift)
Aster novi-belgii
(Michaelmas daisy)
Campanula
Chrysanrthemum maximum (Shasta
daisy)
Echinacea purpurea (pink rudbeckia)
Gaillardia x
grandiflora (blanket flower)
Geum
Heuchera sanguinea (coral
bells)
Lobelia cardinalis (not in very cold areas)
Macleaya
cordata (plume poppy)
Monarda didyma
(bergamot)
Penstemon
Pyrethrum roseum
Salvia farinacea (blue
salvia)
Salvia patens (dark blue salvia)
Solidago (golden
rod)
Veronica (speedwell)
Takings
cuttings:
Cuttings of the following perennials can be taken this month. Select
healthy growths, about 5cm long, and cut just below a node or leaf
joint. Remove the lower leaves and dip the end of the cutting in a
rooting hormone. Then insert the cutting in sand, or a mixture of 2
parts sand and 1 part peat. Press the soil firmly around the cutting,
and water.
Alyssum saxatile
Centuarea cineraria (Dusty
Miller)
Chrysanthemum frutescens (marguerite)
Heliptropium
arborescens (heliptrope or cherry pie)
Palargonium
(geranium)
Penstemon
WINTER
FLOWERING BULBS
These
bulbs can be planted now:
Gladiolus blandus
Gladiolus
cardinalis (waterfall gladiolus)
Gladiolus carinatus (mauve
afrikander)
Ipheion uniflorum (star of bethlehem)
Lachenalia
(cape cowslip)
Veltheimia bracteata (V. viridifolia - forest
lily)
As soon as the weather gets cooler, the following bulbs
can be planted:
Allium neapolitanum
Anemone
coronaria
Aristea thyriflora (tall aristea)
Babiana
Bulbinella
floribunda (cat's tail)
Dipidax triquetra (star of the marsh)
Iris
(Dutch iris)
Freesia
Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth)
Ixia
(wand flower)
Leucojum (snowflake)
Lycoris radiata (spider
lily)
Muscari botryoides (grape hyacinth)
Narcissus
Ornithogalum thyrsoides (chincherinchee)
Ranunculus asiaticus
(ranunculus)
Schizostylis coccinea (river lily)
Sparaxis
(harlequin flower)
SHRUBS
Keep
the ground mulched with compost and water once every three weeks
during hot and dry weather. Pay special attention to watering
camellias and azaleas. Hose down azaleas once a week in dry windy
weather. If azalea foliage is turning yellow apply iron chelate at
the rate recommended on the container, plus a tablespoon of magnesium
(Epsom salts) per bush, and acidify the soil with pine needles, acid
peat or a light dusting of sulphur.
Roses:
Give each bush a 2 tablespoons of 3:1:5 spread over the root area to
harden up the new growth for winter. Continue preventative spraying
against black spot, rust and mildew combining this with a foliar
feed. Water once a week during dry weather.
FRUIT
(AND NUTS)
Where
necessary give vines their last application of fertiliser for the
season. As a general rule give mature trees 1.5kg of 2:3:2. Spread
this over the root area, then water it in well.
Bananas:
Give each plant 30g of 3:1:5 scattered over the root area. Mulch the
ground with compost.
Citrus:
Give each tree 2kg of 3:1:5 and 75g of Epsom salts. Scatter both over
the root area. Water thoroughly every three weeks if the weather is
dry.
Grapes:
Give each vine 1kg of LAN.
Loquats:
Give each tree 2kg of 2:3:2 scattered over the root area. Mulch the
ground with compost.
Mangoes:
Give each tree 2kg of 3:1:5 scattered over the root area. Mulch the
ground with compost.
Pawpaws:
Give each tree 125g of LAN (limestone ammonium nitrate). Scatter this
over the root area starting at least 10cm away from the stem.
Pecans: Water thoroughly once a month.
Strawberries:
If not done last month prepare the bed now for planting in April. Dig
in plenty of old, well-rotted manure and/or compost, then scatter
3:1:5 at the rate of 250g per square metre.
VEGETABLES
Continue
watering and caring for the last of the summer vegetables. Keep the
ground between the rows mulched with compost. Pull weeds up by hand.
Water the early winter vegetables, such as Brussels sprouts,
broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower that were down in December. Feed
with 2:3:2 at a rate of 30g per metre of row.
These vegetables
can be grown in the various regions this month:
Gauteng
and OFS Highveld
Beetroot
Carrots
Dwarf
spinach
Endive
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsnip
Radish
Swiss
chard
Turnip
Lowveld
and warm frost free areas
Beetroot
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Capsicum
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Celery
Cucumber
Dwarf bean
Dwarf
spinach
Eggplant
Endive
Garlic
Horseradish
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Radish
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Pumpkin
Radish
Runner
bean
Swede turnip
Swiss chard
Tomato
Turnip
Vegetable
marrow
OFS
and Northern Cape
Beetroot
Carrots
Dwarf
spinach
Endive
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsnip
Radish
Swede
turnip
Swiss chard
Turnip
Kwa
Zulu Natal Midlands
Cabbage
Carrot
Cauliflower
Celery
Dwarf
spinach
Endive
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsnip
Swiss
chard
Turnip
Eastern
Cape and Karoo
Carrot
Celery
Dwarf spinach
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Peas
Radish
Swede
turnip
Swiss chard
Turnip
Western
Cape: Winter rainfall areas
Broad
been
Broccoli
Brussels
sprouts
Cabbage
Carrot
Cauliflower
Celery
Dwarf
spinach
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Radish
Swiss
chard
Turnip
GARDENING CALENDAR
APRIL
The
weather is lovely all over the country at this time of the year.
Seeds sowing has come to an end in all but the warm frost free areas
and even here sowing should be over by the end of the month.
Gardeners who have planted clumps of the African gladiolus will now
be enjoying a magnificent display of tall orange flowers.
SUMMER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
These are rapidly coming to an end and when
they are past their best it is advisable to pull them up and put them
on the compost heap.
HARDY
SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS
The
seedlings of seeds sown in seedling trays in January and February
should be large enough to plant out into the garden. Space them well
apart and plant them in groups for best effect.
WINTER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Seed
of Dimorphotheca sinuata (Namaqualand daisy) can still be sown in all
areas.
Warm frost-free areas: Seed of the following can still be
sown in seed trays:
Arctotis acaulis
Calendula officinalis
(pot marigold)
Chrysanthemum carinatum (annual
variety)
Clarkia
Consolida ambigua (larkspur) (sow in
situ)
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis (Livingstone daisy or
Bokbaaivygie) (protect seedlings from birds by putting chicken wire
over the beds)
Felicia bergerana (kingfisher daisy)
Godetia
(satin flower)
Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet pea)
Linaria maroccana
(toad flax - sow in situ)
Nemesia
Schizanthus (poor man's
orchid)
Viola x wittrockiana (pansy)
Transplant seedlings
out into the garden as soon as they are large enough, about 3cm high.
Never let any, especially stocks, get too tall or too old in the
pans.
PERENNIALS
Lifting
perennials:
The perennials listed below, if not lifted last month can still be
lifted an divided now, or in September when new growth has started.
Water the clumps the day before they are to be lifted. After lifting
do not let the roots become dry. Do the dividing in the shade, and if
you are expecting the task to take some time cover the clumps with
damp sacking to further protect the roots. For replanting choose
healthy young growths from the outer edge of the clump.
Ajuga
reptans (bugle mint)
Alyssum saxatile
Anemone japonica
Anthemis sancti-johannis
Armeria maritima (thrift)
Aster
novi-belgii (Michaelmas daisy)
Campanula
Chrysanrthemum
maximum (Shasta daisy)
Echinacea purpurea (pink
rudbeckia)
Gaillardia x grandiflora (blanket flower)
Geum
Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells)
Lobelia cardinalis
(not in very cold areas)
Macleaya cordata (plume poppy)
Monarda
didyma (bergamot)
Penstemon
Pyrethrum roseum
Salvia
farinacea (blue salvia)
Salvia patens (dark blue salvia)
Solidago
(golden rod)
Veronica (speedwell)
Carnations
and dianthus:
Take cuttings from non-flowering basal shoots. The cutting should be
about 4 - 5 cm long. Cut just below a node or leaf joint. Remove a
few lower leaves and insert the cutting in sand, or two parts sand
and and one part soil. Press the soil firmly around each cutting, and
water.
Primrose
and polyanthus:
Never let these lack water. Work some compost and/or peat in around
the point where the leaves and roots meet, as it is from this point
that the plants put out new roots.
Violets:
Apply a light dressing of 2:3:2 at the rate of 60g per square metre.
Mulch with sifted compost. Start watering once a week in the summer
rainfall areas.
SUMMER
FLOWERING BULBS
As
long as dahlias and cannas are flowering water them once a week if
the weather is dry. Water liliums and evergreen bulbous plants such
as agapanthus, red hot pokers and day lilies once every three weeks
when the weather is dry.
Continue lifting evergreen agapanthus,
day lilies and summer flowering red hot pokers if they are over
crowded.
Winter
rainfall areas:
If March lilies have finished flowering and if the clumps have become
over crowded, lift, divide and replant the bulbs, with neck of the
bulb just below the surface of the soil.
WINTER
FLOWERING BULBS
Continue
planting all these listed below. Tulips that have not been kept in
cold storage ('untreated tulips') can also be planted now.
Allium
Anemone coronaria
Aristea thyriflora (tall
aristea)
Babiana
Bulbinella latifolia (cat's tail)
Dipidax
triquetra (star of the marsh)
Iris (Dutch iris)
Freesia
Hyacinthus
orientalis (hyacinth)
Ipheion uniflorum (star of Bethlehem)
Ixia
(wand flower)
Leucojum (snowflake)
Lycoris radiata (spider
lily)
Muscari botryoides (grape hyacinth)
Narcissus
Ornithogalum
thyrsoides (chincherinchee)
Ranunculus asiaticus
(ranunculus)
Schizostylis coccinea (river lily)
Sparaxis
(harlequin flower)
Tritonia
Tulip ('untreated' bulbs)
POT
PLANTS
Stop
feeding all pot plants except calceolarias, cinerarias, cyclamen,
primulas and winter flowering bulbs.
Water all pot plants, except
those mentioned above, less frequently as the weather gets cooler.
Never let them dry out, however. This is important especially for
ferns and orchids. As the foliage of amaryllis, achimenes, tuberous
rooted begonias, caladiums and gloxinias starts dying back, gradually
reduce watering.
LAWNS
Grass
no longer needs feeding now. Mow if necessary in the winter rainfall
and frost-free areas. Water the grass once a month in the summer
rainfall areas.
SHRUBS
Take
hardwood cuttings:
These must be of fully matured wood, which developed in the past
spring or early summer. The cutting should be about 20 cm long after
the immature tips have been removed. Cut just below a node or leaf
joint. Remove the leaves from the bottom two thirds of each cutting.
Root the cuttings in the open ground. Make a v-shaped trench
in the garden about 15 cm deep and put a thin layer of sand at the
bottom. Dip the end of each cutting into a rooting hormone and then
position the cutting in the trench. Fill the trench with soil, firm
it well and then water. In the summer rainfall areas keep the soil
damp, but not saturated, during winter and early spring until the
summer rains starts. The cutting should be ready to plant in their
permanent position in the garden in the winter or early spring of
next year.
VEGETABLES
Pull
up all summer vegetables that have finished bearing. Put healthy
plants on the compost heap, but never do this with unhealthy plants.
Give all members of the cabbage family (broccoli, Brussels sprouts,
cabbage, cauliflower and kale) a light dressing of LAN. Dissolve a
tablespoon in 5 litres of water apply to a metre of row. Water before
and after application.
Gauteng
and OFS Highveld
Broad
bean
Dwarf
spinach
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Parsnip
Radish
Swiss
chard
Turnip
Lowveld
and warm frost free areas
Beetroot
Broad
bean
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Capsicum
Carrot
Celeriac
Celery
Cucumber
Dwarf bean
Dwarf
spinach
Eggplant
Endive
Garlic
Horseradish
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Pumpkin
Radish
Runner
bean
Swede turnip
Swiss chard
Tomato
Turnip
Vegetable
marrow
OFS
and Northern Cape
Broad
bean
Carrot
Dwarf spinach
Garlic
Peas
Radish
Swede
turnip
Turnip
Kwa
Zulu Natal Midlands
Broad
bean
Carrot
Dwarf spinach
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Parsnip
Swede
turnip
Turnip
Eastern
Cape and Karoo
Broad
bean
Garlic
Onion
Peas
Radish
Western
Cape: Winter rainfall areas
Beetroot
Broad
been
Cabbage
Carrot
Celery
Dwarf
spinach
Endive
Garlic
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Radish
Swede
turnip
Swiss chard
Turnip
GARDENING CALENDAR
MAY
Time
to think of winter protection where heavy frosts are experienced. In
the summer rainfall areas, as there is now no prospect of rain for
the next eight months, start watering shrubs, roses, fruit trees and
vines. Many shrubs and trees are showing there autumn colours. The
stately Liquidambars are rich crimson with touches of scarlet, the
Tulip tree and the Maidenhair tree are pure gold this month, and in
some districts the apricot trees and Lombardy poplars are now a
golden yellow. But perhaps the most spectacular tree of all in autumn
is the Wax tree with its almost indescribable display of colours.
HARDY
SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS
Water
once a week during dry weather and feed once a month with liquid
fertiliser to maintain steady growth. Water in the morning in areas
that experience frost, so that the foliage has time to dry before
nightfall.
WINTER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Feed
twice a month with liquid fertiliser. Remove faded flowers regularly,
especially from Iceland poppies, pansies and violas. Water during dry
weather, doing this in the morning in areas that experience frost.
Larkspur
and stocks:
If the lower leaves turn yellow this is a sign of nitrogen
deficiency. To remedy this give the plants a dressing LAN. Dissolve
60g of LAN in 5 litres of water and apply to a square metre. Do this
once a month for two or three months, or until the plants are healthy
and green again. Water before and after application.
Sweet
peas:
Tie the plants to their stakes or trellis as they grow, and remove
tendrils and side shoots so that nutrients are not wasted on
unnecessary growth. Increase the water supply as the plants grow.
Water at least once a week in the summer rainfall areas. Tidy up
plants as they die down, removing old flower stems and dead leaves.
Mulch with compost and water once a month in the summer rainfall
areas. Where plants were attacked by mildew during summer, spray
thoroughly with fungicide. Anemone japonica, Michaelmas daisy and
physostegia can still be lifted this month if they are overcrowded.
SUMMER
FLOWERING BULBS
Cannas:
Once the foliage has died back, cut the stems down to ground level.
In areas that experience frost cover the plants with a deep mulch of
coarse compost to protect the rhizomes.
Dahlias:
As soon as the foliage has died down, cut the stems down to 15 to
20cm. Tie all labels securely to the stems. If the tubers are to be
left in the ground in the summer rainfall areas cover them with a
deep mulch of coarse compost. If the tubers are to lifted and stored
for winter, first cut off the tails by pushing a sharp spade down
vertically into the ground about 15cm from the stems, then lift
carefully. The tubers can be placed in a trench in the garden and
covered with soil. If they are to be stored in boxes wash the soil
off, place the tubers in the boxes, cover with peat or sand and store
them in the garden shed. Water lightly from time to time during
winter. Do not store the tubers without any covering as they will
shrivel and be of no use next season.
Liliums:
When the foliage has died down, cut the stems off and cover the
plants with compost. Mark their positions with a ring of small
stakes.
Summer
rainfall areas:
Water agapanthus, day lilies and liliums at least once a month.
WINTER
FLOWERING BULBS
As
the bulbs come up water more frequently, about once a week in the
summer rainfall areas. Water narcissi, daffodils and other exotic
bulbs, which have not yet come up, about twice a month.
Warm
frost-free areas: These
bulbs can still be planted:
Allium neapolitanum
Anemone
coronaria
Aristea thyriflora (tall aristea)
Babiana
Bulbinella
latifolia (cat's tail)
Dipidax triquetra (star of the marsh)
Iris
(Dutch iris)
Freesia
Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth)
Ipheion
uniflorum (star of Bethlehem)
Ixia (wand flower)
Leucojum
(snowflake)
Lycoris radiata (spider lily)
Muscari botryoides
(grape hyacinth)
Narcissus
Ornithogalum thyrsoides
(chincherinchee)
Ranunculus asiaticus (ranunculus)
Schizostylis
coccinea (river lily)
Sparaxis (harlequin flower)
Tritonia
POT
PLANTS
Feed
calceolarias, cinerarias, cyclamen, daffodils, hyacinths, jonquils,
narcissi, poinsettias and primulas every two weeks with a liquid
fertiliser. Water about every three days or when the soil feels dry.
Discontinue feeding other pot plants if this has not already been
done. Water less frequently, but never let the plants, especially
ferns, orchids and philodendrons, become completely dry.
Once
the foliage of amaryllis , caladiums, achimes and tuberous rooted
begonias has died down, reduce watering to a light sprinkling from
time to time to prevent the soil becoming bone dry.
LAWNS
Winter
rainfall and warm frost-free areas:
Mow if necessary.
Summer
rainfall areas:
Water the grass about once a month.
SHRUBS
Take
hardwood cuttings:
Hardwood cuttings that were not taken last month can still be taken
now. These must be of fully matured wood, which developed in the past
spring or early summer. The cutting should be about 20 cm long after
the immature tips have been removed. Cut just below a node or leaf
joint. Remove the leaves from the bottom two thirds of each cutting.
Root the cuttings in the open ground. Make a v-shaped trench
in the garden about 15 cm deep and put a thin layer of sand at the
bottom. Dip the end of each cutting into a rooting hormone and then
position the cutting in the trench. Fill the trench with soil, firm
it well and then water. In the summer rainfall areas keep the soil
damp, but not saturated, during winter and early spring until the
summer rains starts. The cutting should be ready to plant in their
permanent position in the garden in the winter or early spring of
next year.
Protecting
from frost:
In areas where frost is experienced it is necessary to provide winter
protection for tender shrubs such as proteas, beloperones, cupheas,
daturas, fuchsias, hibiscus, poinsettias, etc.
Small shrubs
can be covered with large cardboard boxes. To protect large shrubs
place four stakes round each shrub and drape hessian over these every
night all through winter. Remove the boxes and hessian covers every
morning.
Protect the roots by covering the ground around the
plant with a deep mulch of compost or bark.
Summer
rainfall areas:
Water azaleas, camellias and all shrubs from the winter rainfall
areas once a week.
VEGETABLES
Water
vegetables regularly during dry weather. Feed with Multifeed P every
two weeks to improve the flavour of the vegetables.
In warm
frost-free areas spray tomatoes once a week against blight.
Asparagus:
Prepare trenches. Before preparing the trench clear the ground of
perennial weeds such as couch grass. Dig trenches any convenient
length but remember that the crowns must be spaced 45cm apart. Make
the trench 45cm wide and 25 to 30cm deep. Break up the ground at the
bottom of the trench then return the soil, mixing it well with plenty
old sifted compost and/or old, well-rotted manure and a dressing of
2.3.2. at the rate of 120g per metre of trench.
These
vegetables can be sown in the various regions this month:
Gauteng
and OFS Highveld
Broad
bean
Lettuce
Peas
Radish
Turnip
Lowveld
and warm frost free areas
Beetroot
Broad
bean
Cabbage
Carrot
Celeriac
Celery
Cucumber
Dwarf
bean
Dwarf
spinach
Eggplant
Endive
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Pumpkin
Radish
Runner
bean
Swede turnip
Swiss chard
Tomato
Turnip
Vegetable
marrow
OFS
and Northern Cape
Carrot
Garlic
Peas
Radish
Kwa
Natal Midlands
Broad
bean
Kohlrabi
Leek
Eastern
Cape and Karoo
Broad
bean
Garlic
Onion
Radish
Western
Cape: Winter rainfall areas
Beetroot
Broad
been
Cabbage
Carrot
Dwarf
spinach
Endive
Garlic
Horseradish
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Radish
Swede
turnip
Turnip
GARDENING CALENDAR
JUNE
The
first frosts can be expected in some parts of the country this month.
If you live in a frosty area keep covers handy to protect tender
plants, and water the garden in the morning so that the foliage is
dry before nightfall. Gardeners who are planning to plant 'bare
rooted' fruit trees next month, will be well advised to start
preparing the holes for them to grow.
HARDY
SUMMER FLOWERING ANNUALS
Water
about once a week if the weather is dry and feed once a month with a
liquid fertiliser to keep them growing steadily.
WINTER
FLOWERING ANNUALS
Feed
twice a month with a liquid fertiliser. Remove faded flowers
regularly, especially from Iceland poppies, pansies and violas. Water
during dry weather, doing this in the morning in areas that
experience frost.
Sweet peas: If the margins of the leaves
are turning pale brown and papery it is a sign of potassium
deficiency. There are two ways to correct this. Dissolve either 1
level tablespoon of potassium sulphate, or 2 heaped tablespoons of
3.1.5, in 5 litres of water and apply to a metre of row every two
weeks. Water before and after application.
Tie the plants on to
the trellis regularly. Remove side shoots and tendrils, and water
copiously once or even twice a week. Once the plants start flowering
pick the blooms frequently to encourage them to produce more and
more.
PERENNIALS
Paeonies:
Prepare the ground for planting new plants or the transplanting. They
do best in rich, friable, slightly alkaline soil. If the pH of the
soil is below 6.5 apply a light dressing of lime (just enough to make
the surface of the soil white.)
Summer
rainfall areas:
Water at least once a month, as root growth does not cease in winter
but only slows down. Keep the ground mulched with compost.
BULBS
All
bulbous plants (including
white evergreen arums): As soon as the buds appear start feeding
every two weeks with a liquid fertiliser. Water copiously once a week
when the weather is dry, especially in the summer rainfall
areas.
Convallaria (lily of the valley): Lift and divide if the
plants are becoming overcrowded.
Liliums: In the summer rainfall
areas water liliums once a month as they are never completely
dormant.
Tulips:
Inspect plants for aphids, which tend to hide in the crevices of the
leaves.
POT
PLANTS
Amaryllis,
achimenes, tuberous rooted begonias and caladiums: Sprinkle lightly
with water from time to time to prevent the soil becoming bone dry.
Continue to feed calceolarias, cinerarias, cyclamen, daffodils,
hyacinths, jonquils, narcissi, poinsettias and primulas every two
weeks with liquid fertiliser and water every two or three days.
Discontinue feeding other pot plants if this has not yet been
done. Water less frequently, but never let the plants especially
ferns, orchids and philodendrons, become completely dry.
LAWNS
Warm
frost-free and winter rainfall areas: Mow if necessary.
Summer
rainfall areas: Water the grass once a month.
SHRUBS
Protecting
from frost: In areas where frost is experienced continue to provide
winter protection for tender shrubs at night.
Small shrubs can be
covered with large cardboard boxes. To protect large shrubs place
four stakes round each shrub and drape hessian over these every night
all through winter. Remove the covers every morning.
Protect the
roots by covering the ground around the plant with a deep mulch (7 -
8cm) of compost or bark.
Summer
rainfall areas:
Water azaleas, camellias, magnolias and all shrubs from the winter
rainfall areas thoroughly once a week. Water other shrubs once a
month.
CLIMBERS
Protecting
from frost: In areas that experience frost protect tender climbers
such as sweet peas, bougainvilleas, mandevilla splendens etc., at
night by draping hessian over them. Remove the hessian every morning.
Summer
rainfall areas:
Water plants well about once a month.
TREES
In
areas where heavy frost is experienced
protect tender young trees at night until they have been grown above
frost height (above 2m). Protect in the same way as for
shrubs.
Summer
rainfall areas:
Water trees about once a month.
VEGETABLES
Continue
routine care for all vegetables. Water at least once a week when the
weather is dry. Feed once a month with 2.3.2 at the rate of 60g per
square metre, or with a liquid fertiliser every two weeks.
In
warm frost-free areas spray tomatoes once a week against blight.
Asparagus:
If beds or trenches were not prepared last month do this as soon as
possible. Follow the procedure described last month.
These
vegetables can be grown in the various regions this month:
Gauteng
and OFS Highveld
Peas
Radish
Turnip
OFS
and Northern Cape
None
Natal
Midlands
None
Eastern
Cape and Karoo
Peas
Western
Cape: Winter rainfall areas
Broad
bean
Brocolli
Cabbage
Carrot
Cauliflower
Endive
Leek
Lettuce
Onion
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Radish
Spinach
Turnip
GARDENING CALENDAR
JULY
July
is the coldest month of the year, and in winter-frost areas, the
ground will be covered with frost. But that will not worry the
gardener accustomed to cold-winter gardening. The gardener who may be
in for an anxious five minutes or so will be the one who lives in the
warmer districts, which catch an occasional "snap" frost
for all that.
FROST
If
the garden does get the stray frost, get up ear-ly to assess the
extent of damage done. There will be no mistaking any plants, which
have been frosted. They'll probably be bent over and looking pretty
miserable. Pota-toes and beans are likely to be the worst affected.
Shrubs and even some tender an-nuals will not be harmed much, but
those soft tops of potatoes and other succulent things are easily
damaged. They must now have a light spraying over with cold water.
But you must do this early, before the sun gets on them, or thawing
will cause the fro-zen cells of the plant to expand too quickly, and
you may lose the plants.
PRUNING
FRUIT TREES
The
pruning of fruit trees takes precedence over everything this month.
There are two reasons to prune. One is to shape the tree, in its
early years, by inducing it to develop into a nicely balanced
specimen, the branches so spa-ced that they will make a good
framework to carry the fruiting wood. The other reason is to keep the
tree free from dead wood, which would prove a harbourage for pests,
and to remove weak shoots and unwanted wood - branches which may grow
into the centre of the tree, keeping out light and air, and branches
which may rub against another.
For your pruning operations you
will require a good sharp pruning knife, a small pruning saw (choose
one with a curved blade for preference), and a pair each of hand
secateurs and long-handled pruners or loppers. Before making the
first cut, walk round the tree and examine it from all angles. It
will then more or less tell you just where a little cutting back and
trimming is neces-sary.
When pruning apples
and pears,
the idea is to promote production of as large a number of small spurs
as possible, since as they grow older these spurs will develop into
fruiting wood. Apples and pears fruit on their old wood.
First
look for the dead wood and the water shoots. They're no good, so the
sooner they are out of the way the better.
Now you will be
left with a tree, which has a lot of leading growths made from the
ends of the branches last season an perhaps quite a number of lateral
shoots, which are probably growing in all directions, some of them on
the outer side of the branches and some right into the centre of the
tree.
Cut all that centre stuff out first by pruning it hard
back to two or three buds from the branch from which it sprang. This
will leave a little spur, which is just what you want, for those
spurs will develop fruit buds for next season.
Now cut back
the other lateral shoots similarly. There will still remain those
long leaders, and these can now be cut back to about one-third their
length. The final result should be a nicely balanced tree with an
open centre.
Now we come to the peaches and nectarines. These
fruit on the new wood produced the previous season, so the pruninmg
process is different. This makes pru-ning very simple since the
object is to cut away as much of the old wood as possible and retain
all the new wood you can. This means that you follow the same tactics
so far as keeping the tree well balanced and open-centred is
concerned, and reducing the length of the leaders to reasonable
proportions. But there is not the same necessity for hard spurring
back, since blossom will be produced at intervals along the length of
the new wood. It's easy to distinguish between old wood and new wood.
Old wood is weathered and dark; new wood looks fresh and bright. It's
also easy to tell the diffe-rence between fruit and leaf buds, since
leaf buds are slim and pointed and fruit buds are round and
chubby.
Apricots,
plums and cherries
should not be pruned at all, except for the cutting-out of dead wood
and possibly the removal of some awkward branch. Cherries may gum or
bleed considerably if they are cut about much. These trees bear their
fruit on twiggy shoots often produced right along as well as at the
tips of the branches so, there really is a danger of cutting next
sea-son's fruit away if you prune them at all drastically.
Here
are a few more pruning tips:
Be sure all your pruning
tools are keenly sharp and clean,
and when large wounds are made protect them by painting them over
with builders' knotting, lead paint, or sealing compound. Then the
wounds will heal over nicely.
Always
cut cleanly,
just above a good strong bud pointing in the direction in which it is
desired the branch should grow.
Gather
up the prunings afterwards and burn them,
for there are sure to be the eggs of insect pests on them, and when
all is done spray them with lime-sulphur.
PRUNING
ROSES
Pruning
of rose trees follows much the same lines.
Cut out all dead,
weakly and badly placed wood, then cut back the remaining stems, to a
good outward-pointing bud.
The harder you cut back the more
vigorous will be the resultant growth.
Prune a weakly-growing
tree severely, to encourage more robust growth, prune a moderately
strong-grower more lightly, and just trim back unripe wood and
preserve balance in those roses which show a natural tendency to grow
strongly.
INDOOR
PLANTS
Indoor
plants will not require much water now and this should only be given
when the surface of the soil really begins to look dry. Most of the
foliage plants grown in pots make little growth at this season, which
is the resting period. Keep them out of draughts, and clean them.
Sponge the leaves over once a week with tepid water, and when you
water them at the roots use water of the same tem-perature as the
room.
Primulas, cyclamen and cinerarias, now either in bloom
or making their flower buds, will respond well to a little feeding
once a week, and these, will require rather more water than the
plants which are more or less dormant.
Begonias
bloom constantly and you can get varieties with either single or
double flowers.
African Violets are great favourites. Be
especially careful how you water these, and don't get moisture on the
foliage.
Another good flowering plant is the Kalanchoe, whilst
geraniums make first-class winter-flowering plants on a sunny
windowsill.
WHAT
YOU SHOULD BE DOING IN JULY
Mulch
over the tops of beds planted with spring-flowering bulbs and see
that the soil does not become too dry.
This
is pruning time
for
most ornamental shrubs.
All that is normally necessary is to thin out growth somewhat and
remove dead wood. When pruning hydrangeas cut back only those shoots
which have flowered. Many garden shrubs and hedges, parti-cularly
Pyracantha and quince, are host plants to fruit tree pests. When
spraying your fruit trees also therefore spray your roses and other
ornamental shrubs.
Sort over the stored Gladioli
corms
and grade them into sizes. The larger ones can be planted in beds and
borders for blooming in summer and the smaller cormlets will develop
into flower-size corms if grown on for a season somewhere.
Look
for the new
season's seeds
at your local nursery.
If you have a greenhouse a start can
now be made with the sowing of seeds of begonias, Streptocarpus and
Primula obconica for summer flowering.
In areas where lawns
come into growth early it is not too soon to start pre-paring for the
new season by thoroughly raking, brushing and spiking the turf.
All
stone fruits appreciate
plenty of lime in the soil. This may now be scattered over the
surface. In winter-rainfall areas take advantage of favourable
planting condi-tions to get in new trees and shrubs and to transplant
perennials.
Loosen
the soil
between winter-flowering bedding plants to break up the crust and
conserve moisture.
Order
seed potatoes
in cold areas and make a further planting for succession in
dis-tricts where potatoes are a winter crop.
Dig
over manure and compost the
ground well where it is intended to make an her-baceous or mixed
border in spring.
Cacti
and succulents will
soon be coming into growth again and may have their water supply
slightly increased.
GARDENING CALENDAR
AUGUST
The
windy month, but an exciting one, for all that! If you planted a
"Winter Garden" then the beds should now be full of bloom,
and they will remain colourful longer if you pay attention to keeping
the dead flower heads picked off.
All outstanding winter work
should be completed as quickly as possible. This will include the
planting of trees, shrubs and hedges and pruning, especially of fruit
and rose trees. Even though the trees are probably showing signs of
growth, it won't hurt them to be cut back now and, for the beginner,
late pruning is to be preferred as it is easy at this time of the
year to see which is old and dead wood.
WHAT'S
IN BLOOM?
August
should really begin to show the effect of wise planting. There should
be camellias
in bloom, Japanese
quince
opening its shell-like flowers against a sunny wall and sprays of
almond blossom. The beautiful silver leaved Acacia
baileyana
will be in bloom now, as well as the starry-flowered yellow
jasmine.
If none of these subjects are already in the garden you will be well
advised to make a note of them in your gardening diary now. Consider
planting an almond.
It needs little attention, requiring no pruning. It is almost the
first of the trees to come into bloom, the sprays of blossom make a
charming flower arrangement and if cut when in bud the blossoms will
open when brought into a room and continue decorative over a long
period. And, of course, the blossom you do not cut will give you a
harvest of nuts. The almond is an excellent choice all round.
August
flowering plants are usually tough; they have to stand up to fierce
winds, often quite cold nights, and sudden rises of temperature
during the daytime.
Among these plants the Paris
daisy (Chrysanthemum frutescens)
is outstanding. It is fine when grown as a low hedge, makes a most
decorative specimen, and is good for growing in pots or large tubs on
the stoep. There are several varieties. The white Paris daisy has
finely-cut glaucous foliage, and a large specimen will carry hundreds
of flowers at a time. There is a very dainty pink-flowered form,
which is not quite so free flowering but is none the less attractive,
and a yellow variety, which is often grown for its cut-flower value.
These plants grow very easily from cuttings, which may be taken now
and rooted in sandy soil. The plants will flower well this year and
should be pinched back once or twice while they are young to induce
them to bush out.
CUTTINGS
Cuttings
of a number of plants for summer flowering can be made now. Geraniums
and fuchsias
are commencing to make new growth now and the young shoots can be
propagated. Just be sure that your cuttings are kept shaded until
they are well rooted, and slightly water if they show a tendency to
flag.
Chrysanthemums
are making new growth now and strong shoots taken from the outside of
the plants will be just right to take as cuttings. Whether you wish
to increase your stock or not is is always best to raise young stock
annually and not to rely on old plants.
FUCHSIAS
Fuchsias
are among the finest plants there are for growing in light shade and
for planting somewhere near the front of a mixed collection of
shrubs. There are some wonderful fuchsias obtainable now.
BRIGHT
COLOURS
If
you have decided to have a mixture of bright colours this season in
the garden, you have a very wide choice. Zinnias, in dazzling reds,
orange and scarlets are avail-able in all the different forms of this
versatile flower, which range from neat little quilled and pompom
types to the huge dahlia-flowered kind. Marigolds will also offer a
wide range of colour.
SOFT
COLOURS
Perhaps
you prefer the softer tones. Asters are available in pink, peach and
silvery lavender. Ageratum has a misty blue tint and combines very
well with pale shell-pink Begonia semperflorens. Petunias in the
softer tints are restful to the eye and make a good show in the
garden.
SEED
SOWING
If
you have some place where the young plants may be raised under cover,
you may make a start with the first of the spring work by sowing
seeds of these and many others of the half-hardy annuals now. Do not
forget those very light and graceful annuals which mix so well with
the stiffer and more formal types - pink or white annual Gypsophila,
Saponaria and the ornamental grasses
are excellent mixers. There are many different kinds of ornamental
grasses and all too few gardeners appear to be aware of the interest
and beauty they can contribute to the garden.
"Everlastings"
may be sown towards the end of the month. Helichrysum,
Rhodanthe, Lunaria, Physalis and Molucella
(lovely when dried) can all be included in this month's sowing
programme.
REPOTTING
Most
ferns
are beginning to show signs of new growth now. It is, therefore, the
time for repotting. Tap the rim of the container lightly against a
hard object, slant the pot and allow the fern to slide out, soil and
all. Shake some of the soil free. The fern is now replanted in the
same container. Place clean crocks at the bottom of the pot, then a
layer of leaf mould or compost and put the fern in again. Fill up now
with fresh soil. Tap the bottom of the container lightly on the floor
to set-tle the plant well in. Larger ferns should, if necessary, be
repotted into larger pots Otherwise they can be divided up with a
knife into smaller plants. There is no danger that the plants will be
damaged in this way.
A good potting
mixture
for most plants is three
parts soil, two parts good compost and one part sharp river sand.
If you can get hold of some coarse charcoal and mix with this, so
much the better. Always use pots and crocks which have been well
cleaned, pay very particular attention to drainage and leave
sufficient space at the top of the pot to permit of easy watering.
Avoid using too large pots, as most plants like to feel their roots
against the side of the pots, to which they will cling. If your plant
pots develop a green scum or moss, take a scrubbing brush and brush
it off. It is not harmful in itself but interferes with porosity, and
is unattractive.
LAWNS
You
must now give the lawn its springtime treatment.
First of all
get a good sharp-toothed rake and then rake the lawn as though you
really mean it, first across, then down, and next diagonally, until
you've got rid of all the dead undermat, which can be put straight on
to the compost heap. It is surprising how much of this stuff you will
get out of even a small-sized lawn. When you have finished cut off
the tufts of grass sticking up with the garden shears. After that
take a hollowtine fork and if this is not available a garden fork (a
lawnspiker is useful and does thejob more quickly). Drive it into the
turf every 30cm or so, working the prongs right down as far as they
will go and giving them a bit of a wriggle. That will open up the
surface and let in air, and of course the water and food you may give
the lawn later on. Once this has been done a top-dressing may be
applied.
The most important thing about a top-dressing is that
the lawn can be smoothed out in this manner. After a top-dressing,
the lawn will also become green very quickly.
Watering is now
very necessary. Where you are dependant upon the tap, it would be
better to postpone the operation until September or October when the
spring rains begin. When once the lawn has been attented to it must
be watered regularly otherwise the results will be disappointing.
If
the soil is acid, it is now the best time for an application of
agricultural lime. Scatter it evenly on the surface -50 g per square
metre. Also apply a balanced fertilizer of 50 g 2.1.2(26) of
2.1.0(17) per square metre.
After this the top-dressing can be
given if you prefer it. Prepare this by mixing two parts of garden
soil, one of river sand and one of compost. Test the mixture by
wet-ting it and clamping a fistful in your hand. Let it dry and if it
crumbles when it is dry, then the mixture is suitable. If the mixture
contains too much clay, it will form a crust and then the lawn will
again become uneven.
Before the top-dressing is applied, the
lawn must be well watered. The dressing must be evenly spread and
then smoothed by means of a flat board tied to the end of the rake.
The top-dressing should not be more than 2 cm.
WHAT
YOU SHOULD BE DOING IN THE GARDEN NOW
Pay
special attention to tying up climbing
plants
and seeing that newly-planted fruit trees and standard roses, also
ornamental trees are firmly secured to their stakes. August winds can
do much damage. Place a protective band of hessian or tarred paper
round tree trunks to prevent the tying material cutting into the
bark.
Make a sowing of peas
and sow thickly. There is usually heavy mortality caused through mice
and birds taking the seed and cutworms attacking the seedlings. A
side-dressing of Bexadust along the rows will give much
protection.
In warm areas sow seeds of tomatoes,
squash, cucumbers, pumpkins and vegetable marrow.
No protection is necessary. A few seeds sown in small pots under
glass will give early plants in colder areas.
Plants
can be planted in frames,
but make sure the wind does not blow directly on to them. Plants dry
out quickly at this time of the year and careful attention must be
paid to watering.
Many herbaceous
plants
are now making their new growth and this is a good time in which to
lift and divide them. Replant strong, outside portions only and
discard the old, worn-out centre of the crowns.
Hardy
annuals
such as candytuft, cornflower, clarkia, godetia, Nigella,
eschscholtzia, Linum and carnation-flowered poppy may now be sown in
the open.
Include a few of the new
varieties of bedding plants
in your order. It is always interesting to see what they are like and
how they will grow in your own garden.
Commence planting
gladioli
corms
in Gauteng, Free State and other winter-frost areas. Plant 10 cm deep
and commence spraying with Superspread of Malasol from the time the
spears show through the soil.
Many of the climbing
annuals
may be sown now; these are splendid for quickly covering bare fences
in new gardens. Morning Glories and Cobaea scandens are two of the
fastest growing kinds.
Divide up clumps of chives,
and plant out seedlings, raised last autumn, of all
vegetables.
Commence regular sowings of salad
crops,
just a few at a time for maturing in succession.
Jerusalem
artichoke
tubers may be planted now. They will grow in almost any soil and make
a fine screen for hiding an unsightly fence or
outbuilding.
VEGETABLES
The
seeds of root crops could go in now, and all the salad crops too,
such as rhubarb, asparagus, horseradish and globe artichokes. The
latter appreciate a long season of growth so it pays to sow seeds
early.
Lowveld
and warm frost-free areas
Asparagus
Capsicum
(pepper)
Carrot
Cucumber
Dwarf bean
Eggplant (aubergine,
brinjal)
Globe artichoke
Jerusalem artichoke (plant
tubers)
Melon (all types)
Parsley
Pumpkin
Radish
Runner
bean
Swiss chard
Vegetable marrow (all types)
Free
State and Northern Cape
Asparagus
Beetroot
Capsicum
(pep-per)
Carrot
Dwarf bean
Dwarf spin-ach
Eggplant
(aubergine, brinjal)
Garlic (plant
cloves)
Kohlrabi
Parsley
Peas
Radish
Runner bean
Swede
turnip (swede)
Tomato
Turnip
Vege-table marrow (all
types)
Kwa
Zulu Natal Midlands
Asparagus
Beetroot
Carrot
Celery
Dwarf
bean
Dwarf spinach
Eggplant (aubergine, brinjal)
Horseradish
(plant cuttings)
Lettuce (Cos)
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Runner
bean
Swede turnip (swede)
Swiss chard
Tomato
Turnip
Vegetable
marrow (all types)
Eastern
Cape and Karoo
Asparagus
Beetroot
Cabbage
Capsicum
(pepper)
Carrot
Cauliflower
Dwarf spinach
Eggplant
(aubergine, brinjal)
Endive
Horseradish (plant
cuttings)
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
Parsley
Parsnip
Peas
Radish
Sweet
potato (plant tubers or cuttings)
Swede turnip (swede)
Swiss
chard
Tomato
Turnip
Gauteng
and OFS Highveld
Asparagus
Beetroot
Capsicum
(pep-per)
Carrot
Dwarf bean
Dwarf spin-ach
Eggplant
(aubergine, brinjal)
Horseradish (plant cuttings)
Lettuce
(Cos)
Peas
Radish
Runner bean
Swiss
chard
Tomato
Vegetable mar-row (all types)
Western
Cape: Winter rainfall areas
Asparagus
Beetroot
Broad
bean
Cap-sicum (pepper)
Carrot
Cucumber (under
protection)
Eggplant (auber-gine, brinjal)
Endive
Horseradish
(plant cuttings)
Kohlrabi
Leek
Lettuce
(Cos)
Onion
Parsnip
Peas
Radish
Spinach
Squash
Swiss
chard
Tomato
Turnip
Vegetable marrow (all types)
.
GARDENING CALENDAR
SEPTEMBER
It
isn't only seedlings that are stirring in spring. The whole world is
being re-born, and our good earth is teeming with life.
PESTS
There
are pests, as well. The eggs of slugs and snails are hatching out,
all kinds of biting and sucking insects are being born and somehow or
other-there are always a few old and very hungry cutworms, wireworms,
and so on which have managed to survive the winter and are going on
the rampage in our gardens now.
Seedlings, until they grow
old and tough enough to be more or less unattractive to pests, must
therefore be protected from their enemies. That is easy enough if you
make an early start by spraying with something like Malasol. Don't
wait until your seedlings are attacked and weakened by pest attack
... keep them whole and healthy from the start.
SEED
SOWING
This
month seed sowing can start in real earnest. It is safe to sow any of
the semi-hardy annuals now. By the time the seedlings are up we will
have nothing to fear from the weather. Even a cold night or two won't
hurt them now. Petunias,
nicotiana, begonias
and all other plants which have very fine, dust-like seeds are best
sown in tins placed in a cold frame, although if you are hard-pressed
for space, pots can be accommodated on a bathroom or kitchen
windowsill.
Then there are some very interesting vegetable
sowings
for this month. There are the ornamental gourds,
for instance. Their fruit are highly decorative and extremely
attractive for use in autumn and winter flower arrangements. You can
sow seeds of tomatoes,
sweet corn, and egg plant
(aubergine or brinjal).
Mulching
now will help your seedlings to grow and your transplants to
establish themselves because the soil in which they are growing is
nice and cool and moist.
LAWN
The
lawn is ready for its first run over with the lawnmower. Do not set
the knives of the mower too closely for this. They should not do much
more than just skim the turf. The lawn can be more closely mown later
on.
BULBS
Do
not be worried about the daffodils
and narcissi
you planted in the autumn. They are now rather untidy with yellowing
foliage. Just be patient with them; it won't be long before the
foliage dies down completely. Don't forget to take off the dead
flowerheads and seed pods. If you leave them on the bulbs they will
weaken them.
There is hardly a Southern African gardener who
does not grow a few dahlias.
There are three easy methods of propagating the dahlia. The first of
these is nature's own way, which gives you brand new plants from
seed. It's only drawback is that you never know what type or colour
of flower a seedling will produce, unless you grow the bedding
varieties which come true to type from seed. If you have the ground
to spare, raise some dahlias from seed this year.
Which of the
other two methods you use depends upon what you have in mind: do you
want a large number of dahlia plants as soon as possible or do you
merely wish to have a few plants of a particular variety? If you want
a lot, then put the clumps of tubers into a box with a little soil,
peat or sand thrown over them, water them, and take cuttings from the
new shoots they will soon produce. These sprout very quickly and
should be cut just under a joint in the stem and be rooted in moist
soil or sand.
But perhaps you want only a few dahlias, in
which case start the clumps of tubers into growth under cover and as
soon as they start growing, separate the tubers individually. See
that each tuber has a growing shoot or eye on it and plant them out
in the garden at any time from now on.
Remember that dahlias
like plenty of phosphate in the soil, and the easiest way of
providing this is to dig some rock phosphate into the soil when you
prepare the beds. It is cheap, and easy to obtain. Phosphate is good
for all flowering and fruiting plants, since its special function is
to assist the production of flowers, seed and fruit.
SALAD
GREENS
Of
the salad greens, mustard
and cress
are the most rapid-growing and the easiest to cultivate. And yet one
finds them in neither gardens nor greengrocers. It is surprising when
one considers the ease of cultivation.
Sow the seeds in pots
at ten day intervals and place them in a cold frame. You will then
enjoy these tasty salad crops throughout the year. It is then also
easy to keep the crop clean. Sow the mustard seed two or three days
ahead of the cress, as it takes a little longer to germinate. Any
light soil will suit this crop - in fact it really doesn't need soil
at all, you can grow it on a damp flannel or a piece of wet sacking.
There is no need to cover the seeds, just press them down with a flat
piece of wood and keep the containers dark until germination has
taken place, when they can be moved into the light (but not full sun)
to colour up and take on a nice green shade. As soon as one box or
tin is nicely up, sow another, and then repeat the process and you
will always have a nice crop of mustard and cress.
GARDENING
FOR THE KIDS
To
get the youngsters interested in gardening give each of them a
brightly coloured bowl (a different colour for each) and a packet of
mustard and cress seed, and let them grow this useful crop
themselves. You'll be surprised to find the interest they will take
in watching the crop grow.
PERENNIALS
This
is the season when the perennials are due for a little attention.
They are growing freely now, the young shoots are well above the
soil, so that one can work among them without any risk of doing any
damage. Fork up the soil lightly between the plants and work in a
little old manure or compost, as well as a little of the more
substantial and slow-acting fertilisers like bonemeal. The roots will
get the benefit of this just about the time plants are coming into
bloom.
Among the hardy perennials few are more lovely than the
herbaceous phlox
and delphiniums.
You will know that you can increase your stock of these by taking
cuttings of the young shoots now appearing above the soil. They will
root easily if placed in damp, sandy soil and kept shaded. Don't be
afraid that you will spoil the old plants; they will soon make some
more shoots and flower just as well as ever.
TREES
AND SHRUBS
Those
gardeners who are thinking of putting one or two more evergreen trees
or shrubs into the garden should remember that early spring is a very
good time for moving and transplanting these. Their roots are now
becoming active again, after their winter rest, and very quickly
establish themselves after being moved. Among the evergreens are such
delightful trees and shrubs as the Cupressus, Thuya and laurel, and -
of course - all the citrus fruits. Lemons are hardy and among the
most useful of all fruits.
SEPTEMBER
IN THE GARDEN
Make
a further planting of gladioli
corms for succession. These take approximately 90 days from planting
to flowering so it is easy to plant for a particular date.
Moles
do a great deal of damage. Poisoned baits and traps can be used where
there is no danger to children or domestic livestock, and other
control measures including the placing in the runs of sharp pieces of
glass, acetylene, and smoke bombs.
Coarse "kweek"
and kikuyu
are great problems when they invade the rock garden or grow between
plants. You can get rid of grass effectively with a selective
grasskiller. Spray or paint the grass with a solution of the powder
and water.
When considering new plantings remember the great
contribution many of our indigenous flowers can make to the beauty of
the garden. Those for present planting include the agapanthus,
Kniphofia, yellow arum, Gerbera and Sutera.
In
all areas seed
potatoes
may now be panted. Make a sowing now of beans,
both the bush and climbing varieties. These appreciate a well-dug and
richly manured soil.
This is a good time to divide up
overgrown plants of waterlilies
and all other aquatic plants.
Pot up corms of begonias
and gloxinias
now. The plants should then be nicely in bloom by Christmas.
Replant
window boxes and cavity walls with ivy-leaved geraniums,
trailing petunias, nasturtiums, lobelia and fuchsias.
These plants will give a good display all summer.
Tomato
plants can now be set out in the garden. Fumigate the beds with an
eelworm killer. Nematodes will affect the roots before you have
harvested the whole crop. You must, therefore, act early. Allow
plenty of room between them to ensure free circulation of air,
otherwise there may be trouble from fungoid diseases.
Beds for
young carnation
plants should be exceptionally well drained and have plenty of coarse
gritty material and lime incorporated in them.
VEGETABLES
What
to sow this month
Beans - wait for frost to pass in cold
areas
Beet
Brinjals
Brocolli
Carrots
Celery
Corn -
wait for frost to pass in cold areas
Cucumbers
Gems
Lettuce
Marrows
- wait for frost to pass in cold areas
Peas - cold areas
only
Peppers - wait for frost to pass in cold areas
Potatoes -
cold areas only
Pumpkins - wait for frost to pass in cold
areas
Radish
Tomatoes - wait for frost to pass in cold
areas
HERBS
What
to sow this month
All herbs can be sown this month, but
particularly
caraway
coriander
anise
cumin
borgae
fennel
rocket
GARDENING CALENDAR
OCTOBER
Water
shrubs deeply
to encourage downward root growth. They will become stronger and more
drought-tolerant. Shallow watering encourages roots to turn upwards,
and so weakens the plant.
Hydrangeas
and fuchsias
need lots of water. Try to group your water-loving plants together.
It saves water and makes watering much easier.
Pinch
back fuchsias
regularly to encourage more branches. This ultimately leads to more
flowers.
Feed
camellias and gardenias
with ammonium sulphate, 30g (two tablespoons) per bush. Mix in 5
litres of water. Water the bushes well before feeding. Fertiliser
should never be applied to dry soil.
Perennials
will be growing strongly - make sure they get enough water. Feed with
a high potassium fertiliser such as 3:1:5(26)(SR).
Weeds
will be flourishing. Cut annual weeds before they set seed.
Pinch
back the growing tips of argyranthemums
(you may know them as chrysanthemums) and pelargoniums to encourage
bushy growth.
In the Western
Cape,
water regularly, particularly plants that are native to
summer-rainfall regions. And remember to mulch well. If your bunches
of grapes
are over-crowded, cut out some of the berries. Guavas
should be fed with 2:3:2(22) fertiliser.
Start
fertlising your container plants,
and do so regularly throughout the summer. Use a liquid fertiliser
such as Nitrosol. Always wet the soil before applying the
fertiliser.
Summer
bulbs
can be planted now, up to late November.
It's a good time to
plant
hedges
in summer rainfall regions, or any other region if water is
plentiful.
Final sowing of in-situ seeds of summer-flowering
annuals
by the middle of October.
Plant
out summer-flowering seedlings.
See what's available at your local nursery.
Rotate
annuals
- don't sow the same species in the same place every
year.
FRUIT
Fruit
fly and coddling moth
larvae will be after your ripening fruit now. Try using a herbal
insecticide before resorting to the chemicals.
LAWNS
Mow
your lawn regularly. The more often you cut a kikiyu lawn, the more
it will spread and thicken. Feed every 4 to 6 weeks with
3:2:1(28)(SR), a slow-release fertiliser that wont burn the lawn. Or
use L.A.N. for quick results, but always apply it to a dry lawn (if
it's damp, it'll burn the lawn badly), then water very well. If you
can apply it just before a storm, all the better.
Keep a
lookout for lawn caterpillars. If you suspect you may have them, try
putting a wet towel on the lawn at night, and check under it in the
morning. If you see a few, you have them in the lawn. Try watering
with a good squirt of dishwashing liquid diluted in a 10 litre
watering can. It should make them come to the surface.
If you
have a lot of weeds in your lawn, try feeding with a lawn fertiliser
- L.A.N. or 3:2:1(28)(SR) - and watering well. The weeds will grow
quickly. Mow them off. Keep watering and mowing, and feed again after
a few weeks. You'll notice less and less weeds come up each time you
mow. Eventually they will disappear and the lawn will close up and
grow strong and healthy.
ROSES
Look
out for aphids. Give the ladybirds a chance to do their work before
spraying. If you must spray, try using a herbal insecticide.
Look
out for shoots on the roots stock of roses, particularly standards.
Remove them by cutting close to the stem.
When picking roses
for the vase, take short stems, and not too many flowers at one time.
Take out crossing branches on rose bushes, as well as dead or
weak growth. Dead-head to a healthy, outward-pointing
bud.
VEGETABLES
In
Summer
Rainfall, Dry Continental and Winter Rainfall regions,
these vegetable seeds can be planted
now:
Beans
Carrots
Cauliflower
Capsicum
Celery
Cucumber
Eggplant
Garlic chives
Parsley
Pumpkin
Radish
Squash
Tomato
Turnip
In sub-tropical
regions,
vegetable grow best in the winter months. For now
try:
Capsicum
Cauliflower
GARDENING CALENDAR
NOVEMBER
ANNUALS
Feed
annuals with a liquid fertiliser every two to three weeks. Try
Nitrosol, Multifeed P or Phostrogen. Dead-head regularly. Red spider
could make an appearance now, so be on the lookout for that. Look on
the underside of leaves. Snails and slugs will be on the warpath too.
Scatter snailbait in the late afternoon after watering.
These
quick-growing summer-flowering annuals can be sown
now:
Alyssum
Dahlia (bedding)
Dwarf
marigold
Eschscholtzia californica (Californian poppy)
Iberis
umbellata (candytuft)
Portulaca
Tagetes
Nasturtium
Although
it seems crazy to think about winter
gardening
in the middle of summer, it's time to start sowing some
winter-flowering seed. Ornamental kale and primula malacoides for
example.
PERENNIALS
Dead-head
regularly. Mulch with compost around each plant and don't be mean! A
10cm layer will do wonders for your plants, keeping the roots cool
and moist. You wont have to water as often. Never allow the roots to
dry out completely though. This is particularly important in
winter-rainfall areas where rainfalls are few and far between. Divide
primroses when they've finished flowering.
Seed of the
following perennials can be sown now in seed trays:
Achillea
millefolium (yarrow)
Felicia amelloides (blue
daisy)
Alyssum
Aquilegia caerulea (columbine)
Argyranthemum
(chrysanthemum) hybrids
Argyranthemum maximum (chrysanthemum)
(Shasta daisy)
Aster novi-belgii (Michaelmas daisy)
Bellis
perennis (English daisy)
Bergenia cordifolia
Begonia
Centaurea
candidissima
Centaurea macrocephala
Cerastium tomentosum (snow
in summer)
Delphinium
Digitalis (foxglove)
Gaillardia x
grandiflora
Gazania
Gerbera jamesonii (Barberton
daisy)
Gypsophila paniculata
Helianthemum
Heliotropium
Hypoestes
sanguinolenta
Liatris
Limonium
Lobelia cardinalis
Lupinus
(lupins)
Nierembergia
Papaver orientale (Oriental
poppy)
Penstemon
Phlox decussata
Primula x polyantha
(primula acaulis)
Primula veris (primrose)
Scabiosa
caucasia
Viola odorata (sweet violet)
BULBS
As
the foliage of winter-flowering
bulbs
dies down, some can be lifted and stored.
Summer
flowering bulbs
should be watered at least once a week. Never let them dry out.
If
you have Amaryllis
planted in the garden, watch out for the amaryllis caterpillar (lily
borer). Use Karbaspray or similar, but only spray the affected
plants. Amaryllis make perfect pot plants too.
Cannas should be
fed once a month. Scatter one tablespoon of 2:3:2 around each clump.
Water deeply once a week.
Feed dahlias
once a month with a liquid fertiliser such as Multifeed P, Nitrosol
or Phostrogen. Hose down the foliage to discourage red spider. Stake
the plants as they grow.
Irises
can be lifted and divided as they finish flowering.
Keep the
soil around liliums
well-mulched to keep the roots cool and feed once a month with a
liquid fertiliser. Tie the growing stems to firm stakes.
LAWNS
Feed
your lawn every 4 to 6 weeks with 3:2:1(28)(SR), a slow-release
fertiliser that wont burn the lawn. Mow at least once a week. Twice
is better! Change the direction in which you mow often to prevent
ridges and uneven growth. Water in the early morning so that it can
dry out by the evening.
SHRUBS
Softwood
cuttings
can still be taken. Water during dry weather. Always water deeply.
Make a dam around the plant and water close to the base. Let the
water trickle in slowly. Lay a 10cm mulch layer of compost or bark
chips around each bush.
Fuchsias
will need watering every two or three days now. Pinch back to
encourage more flowers. Feed once a month with a liquid
fertiliser.
Hydrangeas
need regular watering. In very hot weather, hose down the foliage.
Feed once a month with a liquid fertiliser or 1 tablespoon of 2:3:2
per bush. Water in well.
ROSES
Dead-head
regularly.
Cut back to the first leaf with 5 leaflets and a dormant bud pointing
in the direction that you want the new shoot to grow. Give each plant
a large handful of 8:1:5 granular fertiliser or an organic
equivalent. Watch out for all sorts of pests. Remove beetles by hand
rather than spraying, if you've go the time and patience!
FRUIT
If
you're lucky enough to be able to grow bananas,
feed each plant with 30g of 3:1:5, scattered around the root area.
Mulch and water well.
Cape
gooseberry
seeds can be sown now in winter rainfall areas.
Scale
on citrus trees
can be sprayed with a light mineral oil, or wiped with a cloth dipped
in methylated spirits. If you notice a green caterpillar with bright
orange "horns" munching the leaves, leave it alone. It's
called the "orange dog" and turns into a beautiful yellow
and black butterfly. Of course if there are too many, you'll have to
remove them or you wont have much of a tree left!
Once all the
fruit of Mulberries
has been picked, feed each tree with 2kg of 3:1:5 scattered around
the root area. Start 10cm from the stem and scatter out a little
beyond the dripline of the branches.
Rasberries
should be mulched with well rotted manure or compost. If you use
compost, feed with 2:3:2. Never let the plants dry out.
VEGETABLES
Water
regularly and feed once
a month with a liquid fertiliser. Plant new batches once a month for
a continuous supply. Many vegetables can be sown now throughout the
country. Ask your nurseryman for advice, or read the seed packets
next time you visit your nursery.
Tie tomatoes
to stakes using twist-ties or rafia. Don't use fishing line - it'll
damage the stems especially if you're in a windy area.
Pick
beans
twice a week to encourage the plant to keep bearing. The less you
pick, the less it will bear. Don't pick when the plants are wet,
though. The leaves are more likely to be attacked by fungi if they're
handled when wet.
In sub-tropical areas, plant sweetcorn
and make a last planting of cucumbers.
GARDENING CALENDAR
DECEMBER
This
is a busy month for all, but ensure your tasks are completed early to
allow you time to enjoy your garden over the festive season. The
second flush of roses and the early Summer flower annuals are just
beginning to open. Hydrangeas, Liliums, Day Lilies and Agapanthus add
to the beauty of the garden.
ANNUALS
Continue
watering in
dry weather. Feed
twice a month with a liquid fertiliser. Dead-head regularly. Fill in
any gaps if necessary. Be on the look out for the tell-tale signs of
red spider - a fine web that is visible on the undersides of leaves.
The foliage turns silver-grey and later brown in colour. Put out bait
for slugs and snails.
SEEDS
The
following quick growing summer flowering annuals can still be
sown:
Alyssum
Bedding Dahlia
Dwarf
Marigold
Eschscholtzia califonica (Californian Poppy)
Iberis
umbellata (Candytuft)
Portulaca
Tagetes
Tropaeolum majus
(Nasturtium)
In cool areas seed of winter-flowering annuals,
which have a long growing season, can still be
sown:
Primula
Ornamental kale
BULBS
Amaryllis
belladonna
- in the summer rainfall areas, lift and divide if
necessary.
Amaryllis
family
- watch for attack by the amaryllis caterpillar.
Gladioli
- continue planting to ensure a succession of flowers.
Nerine
- these indigenous bulbs can be planted this month for Autumn
colour.
Crinum
- cut-off the faded flower heads. Save the fleshy seeds and plant on
the surface of the soil in small containers.
Irises
- divide overcrowded tall bearded hybrids.
PERENNIALS
Any
of these perennials that were not sown last month can still be sown
now:
Achillea millefolium (Yarrow)
Alcea rosea
(Hollyhock)
Aquilegia (Columbine)
Aster novi-belgii (Michaelmas
daisy)
Bellis perennis (English daisy)
Bergenia
cordifolia
Begonia (all types)
Cerastium tomentosum
(Snow-in-summer)
Chrysanthemum maximum (Shasta daisy)
Digitalis
(foxglove)
Felicia amelloides
Gaillardia
Gazania
Gerbera
jamesonii (Barberton daisy)
Heliotropium (Heliotrope)
Hypoestes
(Polka dot plant)
Limonium perezii (Statice)
Lobelia
cardinalis
Nepeta (cat mint)
Penstemon
Physostegia
(Obedience plant)
Rudbeckia (Gloriosa daisy)
Viola
odorata
Acanthus
- lift and divide if necessary. Cut back old leaves and flower stems
to ground level. Feed each clump with a handful of 2:3:2 fertiliser
around the base. Mulch with compost. Water once a week during dry
weather.
Delphiniums
- Water well every second or third day during dry weather. Feed twice
a month with a liquid fertiliser.
ROSES
Continue
with a regular spraying programme to combat fungal problems. Feed
with 8:1:5 fertiliser or an organic equivalent. Mulch with
well-rotted, old manure around each plant, keeping it well away from
the stem.
LAWNS
Mow
fine grass once a week and kikuyu twice a week. Lift the lawn-mower
blades to allow the grass to grow slightly longer - this will give
the roots protection from the heat of the sun and from drying winds.
To transform your lawn into a lush, green carpet, feed with a high
nitrogen fertiliser or L.A.N. and water
well.
PROPAGATION
Semi-hardwood
or half-ripe cuttings
of Hypericum, Fuchsia, Hydrangea, Pentas, Pelargonium and Lavender
can be taken this month.
Pot
up plantlets,
which have developed on Dietes and Day Lily flower stems. Layer
Carnations and Dianthus.
SHRUBS
Water
every week
during dry weather and mulch the ground with compost.
Camellias
- feed each bush with about 30 grams of magnesium sulphate (Epsom
Salts). Dissolve this in 5 litres of water and apply as a liquid.
INDOOR
PLANTS
Amaryllis
(Hippeastrum) - continue feeding every two weeks with a liquid
fertiliser to build up the bulb for the next season.
Wipe
dusty leaves.
Spray the leaves of foliage plants in hot, dry weather. If this is
done outdoors, ensure that the plants are in the shade - the leaves
are sensitive to the sun and will burn easily. Do not wet grey, hairy
leaves.
VEGETABLES
Lettuces
- when planting in Summer choose heat tolerant varieties.
Tomatoes
- spray against blight once a week and after heavy rain.
Onions
- harvest.
Beans
- pick two or three times a week and sow small batches of seed about
once a month for succession.
Cucumber
family - splash bait on the leaves of all members of the cucumber
family (cucumbers, marrows, melons, pumpkins) to protect the fruit
from pumpkin fly.
Potatoes
- harvest baby potatoes. They should be ready for lifting once the
plant has flowered.
There are numerous vegetables
that can be grown from seed. These are region specific. Ask your
local nurseryman for advice.
FRUIT
Continue
to spray for fruit fly
and coddling moth, being very careful to observe the necessary safety
period. Collect and dispose of all fallen fruit to prevent fruit fly
breeding. When the fruit has been picked, feed with a 6:1:5
fertiliser at the rate of about 100 grams for young trees and up to
200 grams for older trees. Excessive leaf growth shades the tree
causing poor fruit development. Reduce the amount of fertiliser if
this occurs.
Citrus
- feed each tree with 3:1:5 fertiliser spread over the root area,
starting at least 10 centimetres away from the trunk and going out to
just beyond the drip line of the branches. Mulch and water well every
three weeks in dry weather.
Grapes
- keep well watered as fruit swells.
Berries
(boysenberries, raspberries and youngberries) - when the bushes have
finished bearing cut the old fruiting canes down to ground level. Tie
the new canes on to the supports to take the place of those cut down.
Strawberries
- feed with liquid manure when the last fruits have been
harvested.
PRUNING
Prune
spring flowering shrubs such as Weigela and Philadelphus. Prune
climbers like Jasmine and Petrea to maintain a compact shape. Cut
back Santolinas and trim Lemon Verbena after flowering.
