weather is lovely all over the country at this time of the year.
Seeds sowing has come to an end in all but the warm frost free areas
and even here sowing should be over by the end of the month.
Gardeners who have planted clumps of the African gladiolus will now
be enjoying a magnificent display of tall orange flowers.
Summer flowering annuals
These are rapidly coming to an end and when
they are past their best it is advisable to pull them up and put them
on the compost heap.
Hardy summer flowering annuals
seedlings of seeds sown in seedling trays in January and February
should be large enough to plant out into the garden. Space them well
apart and plant them in groups for best effect.
Winter flowering annuals
of Dimorphotheca sinuata (Namaqualand daisy) can still be sown in all
Warm frost-free areas: Seed of the following can still be
sown in seed trays:
Chrysanthemum carinatum (annual
Consolida ambigua (larkspur) (sow in
Dorotheanthus bellidiformis (Livingstone daisy or
Bokbaaivygie) (protect seedlings from birds by putting chicken wire
over the beds)
Felicia bergerana (kingfisher daisy)
Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet pea)
(toad flax - sow in situ)
Schizanthus (poor man's
Viola x wittrockiana (pansy)
out into the garden as soon as they are large enough, about 3cm high.
Never let any, especially stocks, get too tall or too old in the
The perennials listed below, if not lifted last month can still be
lifted an divided now, or in September when new growth has started.
Water the clumps the day before they are to be lifted. After lifting
do not let the roots become dry. Do the dividing in the shade, and if
you are expecting the task to take some time cover the clumps with
damp sacking to further protect the roots. For replanting choose
healthy young growths from the outer edge of the clump.
reptans (bugle mint)
Armeria maritima (thrift)
novi-belgii (Michaelmas daisy)
maximum (Shasta daisy)
Echinacea purpurea (pink
Gaillardia x grandiflora (blanket flower)
Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells)
(not in very cold areas)
Macleaya cordata (plume poppy)
farinacea (blue salvia)
Salvia patens (dark blue salvia)
Take cuttings from non-flowering basal shoots. The cutting should be
about 4 - 5 cm long. Cut just below a node or leaf joint. Remove a
few lower leaves and insert the cutting in sand, or two parts sand
and and one part soil. Press the soil firmly around each cutting, and
Never let these lack water. Work some compost and/or peat in around
the point where the leaves and roots meet, as it is from this point
that the plants put out new roots.
Apply a light dressing of 2:3:2 at the rate of 60g per square metre.
Mulch with sifted compost. Start watering once a week in the summer
Summer flowering bulbs
long as dahlias and cannas are flowering water them once a week if
the weather is dry. Water liliums and evergreen bulbous plants such
as agapanthus, red hot pokers and day lilies once every three weeks
when the weather is dry.
Continue lifting evergreen agapanthus,
day lilies and summer flowering red hot pokers if they are over
If March lilies have finished flowering and if the clumps have become
over crowded, lift, divide and replant the bulbs, with neck of the
bulb just below the surface of the soil.
Winter flowering bulbs
planting all these listed below. Tulips that have not been kept in
cold storage ('untreated tulips') can also be planted now.
Aristea thyriflora (tall
Bulbinella latifolia (cat's tail)
triquetra (star of the marsh)
Iris (Dutch iris)
Ipheion uniflorum (star of Bethlehem)
Lycoris radiata (spider
Muscari botryoides (grape hyacinth)
Schizostylis coccinea (river lily)
Tulip ('untreated' bulbs)
feeding all pot plants except calceolarias, cinerarias, cyclamen,
primulas and winter flowering bulbs.
Water all pot plants, except
those mentioned above, less frequently as the weather gets cooler.
Never let them dry out, however. This is important especially for
ferns and orchids. As the foliage of amaryllis, achimenes, tuberous
rooted begonias, caladiums and gloxinias starts dying back, gradually
no longer needs feeding now. Mow if necessary in the winter rainfall
and frost-free areas. Water the grass once a month in the summer
These must be of fully matured wood, which developed in the past
spring or early summer. The cutting should be about 20 cm long after
the immature tips have been removed. Cut just below a node or leaf
joint. Remove the leaves from the bottom two thirds of each cutting.
Root the cuttings in the open ground. Make a v-shaped trench
in the garden about 15 cm deep and put a thin layer of sand at the
bottom. Dip the end of each cutting into a rooting hormone and then
position the cutting in the trench. Fill the trench with soil, firm
it well and then water. In the summer rainfall areas keep the soil
damp, but not saturated, during winter and early spring until the
summer rains starts. The cutting should be ready to plant in their
permanent position in the garden in the winter or early spring of
up all summer vegetables that have finished bearing. Put healthy
plants on the compost heap, but never do this with unhealthy plants.
Give all members of the cabbage family (broccoli, Brussels sprouts,
cabbage, cauliflower and kale) a light dressing of LAN. Dissolve a
tablespoon in 5 litres of water apply to a metre of row. Water before
and after application.
and OFS Highveld
and warm frost free areas
and Northern Cape
Zulu Natal Midlands
Cape and Karoo
Cape: Winter rainfall areas